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Sand Media Blasters

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 2nd 2010, 09:18 PM

So pretty much this nickel teflon coating from POF is a POS and it's making me mad. The Diuracoat isn't adhearing to it properly, so it's time to get a sand blaster. I stopped off at the local TSC and found a kit for $110. It seems like it'd have everything I need. I've already got a space on the workbench set aside for it as well as a 1hp 3 gal craftsman air compressor to power it. Here's the link to it: http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/sandblasting-tools-accessories/black-bull-abrasive-blast-cabinet-3951103. My question to all of you who have something similar or worked with these is; is it worth it to get this one? Is it missing anything essential that I would need to pick-up to make it work (aside from the sand/media)? Last, what grit of sand works best when blasting a gun? I only want to remove the coatings on them not etch them or perminantly screw up the surface. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated on this before I just wing it and get it.

Thanks,

GR32

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Recoil

Posted: Mar 2nd 2010, 09:41 PM

I'm sure Instructor Pyro will chime in, he is doing duracoating now and he uses a sandblaster often. He can point you in the right direction. Foxtrot may do this too, not sure.

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InstructorPyro

Posted: Mar 2nd 2010, 11:15 PM

I have the same problem with Saiga rifles. The coating on that sucks for DuraCoating. I use 60 grit sand in my blaster. It takes the finish off without etching. Besides, once you duracoat you shouldn't see any minor surface blemishing caused by blasting. Make sure you have a filter/dryer on your compressor or you'll be spraying mud after a little while. Your blasting cabinet seems to have everything to go.

Here is an upper/lower that I blasted and after DuraCoat:

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 2nd 2010, 11:57 PM

Thanks IP. I was just wanting some clairity before I go drop another hundred or so...the wife kinda gets irritated when I need something else since I'm always needing something else.

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foxtrot

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 05:22 AM

And just so it's said - make sure you use a respirator when sandblasting! Long term exposure can lead to Silicosis over time.

Looks like it probably has everything you need. If you end up doing a lot of sandblasting you might want a compressor with a bigger tank, but for small projects.. I think that should serve the purpose.

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Mad_Max

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 08:55 AM

@ GR32 :

That's kinda how it is around here.....Every time you think your finally done you find there's always something else.....I have dropped some serious coin on Reloading Components, Ammo, And a collectible Rifle this past year - Then needed a new Powder Measure(Sort Of)......The Wife thinks I've used up all my Birthdays and Christmas until I turn 50 (LOL) - I showed her the pics of that muzzle loading accident and told her I really needed it (LOL).

On the subject of blasting and coating a rifle stock :

I've got a M14 GI Fiberglass Stock that I did a texture coating and camo job on a few years ago....It's decent but starting to fade out in spots and nicks, scratches, etc....I'd like something more Professional looking - Like the Marine Camo on the McMillan Stocks.

What kind of coin are we talking to blast and recoat it ???......I've bedded it so would need to be careful to preserve the built up areas around the receiver - Nothing fancy, Just the 3-4 color camo pattern like McMillan's....and a good clear coat to make it last???

One of you guys can PM me if you want - By the time I invest in the stuff to do it with one of you guys could do it cheaper/better I'm sure.

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 09:49 AM

Max, I'm still new to the duracoating as a business thing. I do it more as a hobby to get me out of the house and i like the sence of accomplishment when I do something like the Multicam job i've been doing. From what I've seen online, to do the multicam (7 colors, 4 masks) the cheapest I saw was 275 for a pistol and it went up to 500 for rifles and extra components. I'm not quite the price gouger since I know anyone can get on lauerweaponry and see how much the paint actually costs. The most time consuming thing that I've found is doing the masks. I've gotten the templates from lauerweaponry and from i think it was bulldogarms and I still like to make my own better. I've never done a digital pattern yet but i wouldn't think it'd be any different than any of the others. I usually go price of paint and then a little extra unless its a rediculous about of prep work. I've got an ar-15 I'm about to do and theres about 15 extra peices aside from the gun...thats when I charge a little extra. Generally I will see what price the individual wants to pay for it and then I'll tell them to get real or I'll take it if the price and job is right. Talk to some of the other guys on here and see what they would charge, I'm just north of nashville, tn and im nearly set up completely with everything i could possibly need. I think the sand blaster and Fox had a good point a bigger tank would be that bad. so shop aund and hit me up

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InstructorPyro

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 11:14 AM

Just to be clear, which of these finishes are you referring to:

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Splat

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 12:07 PM

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rr556

Posted: Mar 3rd 2010, 01:48 PM

That urban looks.......well, Atlantis urban maybe

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Mad_Max

Posted: Mar 4th 2010, 08:09 AM

Thanks for the responses guys......I PM'd you back Pyro.

They used to have something called 'Marine Camo' a long time ago....The closest one I see looks like the Forest or Woodland Finish....On the Springfield Site they still offer a McMillan Stock in 'Marine Camo' on their Super Match M1A's.

http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=53

I'll let you guys know when I get around to rebedding it back into it's birch stock.....And have the fiberglass one freed up to do something with.

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foxtrot

Posted: Mar 4th 2010, 01:16 PM

Digital: If you don't know a guy with a nice plotter cutter (hint hint) your out of luck. That would be a 150 hour job easy just to make the masks without the assistance of automated technology.

As it is, I spend an easy 25 hours on a four color rifle, and that is with no mask creation time (plotter will spit out a couple square feet of digital in 5-10 minutes). Placing hundreds (probably thousands) of little tiny squares eat time like nothing else. Hands down, digital is the most time consuming finish a person can do.
Talking a good digital though. Lauers digital masks... yea, it's like the difference between duplos and legos to a 12yo kid. Whoever vectored lauers needs 'adjusted'.

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foxtrot

Posted: Mar 4th 2010, 01:19 PM

Once we can peel away some spare hours we'll clean our masks up and sell them pretty inexpensively. I think that would make us the only source besides Lauer, and the only source for realistic digital masks.

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Mad_Max

Posted: Mar 5th 2010, 08:30 AM

Man that's got to be tedious...... My ADHD couldn't handle it !!!

I'm almost embarrassed to say I did this first camo job with spray cans and masking tape(LOL).

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InstructorPyro

Posted: Mar 5th 2010, 10:25 AM

Don't be worried about using spray cans. I painted my ninja with spray cans too.

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 14th 2010, 04:27 PM

I went out and got the sand blaster from TSC, with absolutely no help from the directions that came with it (because they were not helpful in any way), I have it set up and now it's time to tackle the POF Nickel Teflon coating and get that damn rifle done. Wish me luck, I'm going to try my hand at sand blasting on an old Eastwing hammer that I've had for the last 10 years.

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InstructorPyro

Posted: Mar 15th 2010, 12:10 AM

I love sandblasting... especially since I bought the cabinet style blaster.

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 15th 2010, 12:30 AM

I'm beginning to love it to, i hit up the old hammer and it is looking new again. I'm going out tomorrow to get an auxillary tank because my little 3 gallon is working overtime, and I think i need to get a coarser grit, I have the 60 grit now, but the teflon doesn't appear to be coming off so maybe a little tougher grit will make it budge.

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InstructorPyro

Posted: Mar 15th 2010, 02:03 AM

Are you using sand? I use 60 grit sand and it does just fine but I don't know about the teflon stuff. Hmmm.... thinking but not coming up with anything. Try 30 grit sand.

For an air supply, I use a 60 gallon 6 horse Craftsman at 125 psi with inline moister collector. After about 10 minutes of blasting I was throwing mud. LOL

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foxtrot

Posted: Mar 15th 2010, 02:52 AM

I'd recommend against sand personally! Silicosis.. apparently, even respirator masks can't filter it out, you need supplied air for it to be completely safe.

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gunrunner32

Posted: Mar 15th 2010, 08:47 AM

I use this stuff from Black Diamond. I know it's not sand. If I wanted to get another air compressor I think my wife would hit me with the one that I already have. I think I'll just stick with the 3 gal and get a 10/11 gal auxillary tank.

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gundoc_iowa

Posted: Mar 22nd 2010, 02:24 AM

I have been usig brownells alumahyde for awhile now, I use a respirator for the degreasing and actual shooting of the gun. I think I read somewhere that aluminum oxide can be used instead of sand? I am considering setting up to do this stuff as a hobby/money maker, I have done about 5 guns, from pistols to a sawed off Ted Williams shotgun that was ready for the boneyard. It comes out really nice if you take your time....

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foxtrot

Posted: Mar 22nd 2010, 06:23 AM

Yes, aluminimum oxide is a very good alternative to sand. Other types of commercial media include plastic beads, glass beads, walnut (I still don't get how people can get it through a sandblasting gun). I even read about a guy trying baking soda.. and while it did a reasonable job, it made a mess of such epic levels that they recommended nobody else ever try it, especially since blasting with things that are pretty far from PH neutral isn't a good idea.

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